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To minimize the size of the cells for painting, I would sand the trim piece after it has been routed with grit sand paper. I would then blow off any residual dust on the routed piece and wipe it down with a wet rag. This should give you a very smooth finish after painting. Paint adhesion to PVC, when tested in accordance with ASTM test protocol, is excellent and equivalent to that of paint on a pine board. Your issue will not be with the substrate but the paint.

The paint manufacturer needs to specify a paint that will perform in a high moisture environment. If such a paint exists you should not have any paint adhesion issues. We sometimes make one piece CNC routed exterior shutters from Versatex. Can these shutters be painted dark colours since they are basically free-standing isolated units? Why is it suggested that Versatex not be painted dark colours? Millwork shops and fabricators across the US have made one piece shutters and painted them dark colors with much success.

Shutters made from multiple pieces have a tendency to open at the seams if painted certain dark colors like Black, Forest Green or Cocoa Brown. The reasons dark shutter perform even when painted a dark color are because they are free standing, as you mentioned, and also the fact they are not very long or tall. All cellular PVC trim producers do not recommend they be painted dark colors. The reasons we do not recommend Versatex be painted a dark paint color are these: 1 Cellular PVC trim, no matter the manufacturer, has a heat distortion temperature of to F.

This is the temperature where cellular PVC begins to lose some of its physical properties. If you use an embossed or textured finish on your PVC trim board the pattern may disappear when the board reaches the heat distortion temperature. The amount of expansion or contraction of cellular PVC trim is directly proportional to the length of the board and the difference between the install temperature and the max and min temperatures the project will reach after installation.

It is best to try to minimize the max. Painting the board a dark color makes it more susceptible to excessive expansion and potential buckling on the wall if it is a long run of trim i. In my opinion a long run is 3 or more boards. John, I am replacing some wood posts and bottom wood ledge on my second story balcony due to dry rot. The balcony has glass panels. Would like to use PVC molding if at all possible due to the non-dry rot capability. Is it appropriate to use a air nail gun to fasten the PVC molding to the wood post?

If so, is there a max gauge I should use? Am afraid the gluing the molding to the posts and ledge will not be sturdy enough to hold the glass securely and screws may be too big. Also, since the posts are white and I may have to paint the moldings to match, what paint should I use and what type of sealant should I use for the 90 degree seams in the corners?

Thanks for any advise. Bille: Per your questions, yes it is appropriate to use an air nail gun to fasten the PVC moulding to the wood post. Use an 18 gage or 16 gage trim nail. As for paint use any latex acrylic paint or a latex paint with urethane. There are many more that bond well to PVC trim. Can I use a double sided tape as she does not want to paint or see nail holes? We built a new home in extensively using Azek smooth trim boards throughout the exterior of the house.

We also used the Azek molded trim around windows and sills. The main exterior siding is Hardie Board. We did paint all of the trim. All of the trim and window surrounds are now in pretty bad shape after 6 years with the caulking having cracked and separated on just about every joint.

Our builder attempted to use various sealants and bonding products recommended by Azek to fill in the joints several times over but none have held through the winter months. Our house exterior is now a mess of failed joints. Our builder says that Azek has refused to provide any further assistance other to say that their installation procedures have changed since our house was built and that there is nothing wrong with the product.

Other than replacing all of the exterior trim with another product, is there a something new on the market available that can be applied to the joints that will not crack and pull apart during cold weather months? One aspect of our business that separates us from the competition is our analysis of complementary products to enhance the performance of our trim.

I recommend their color which is a match to our trimboard but should also be a close match to your Azek trim. I live in Pittsburgh and built an outdoor living area with Versatex Trim including the outdoor cabinetry. I used Solar Seal for the joints between our brick home and the trim. Temperatures reached F last winter and the sealant performed as expected with no cracking or pulling apart at the seams. I recommend you call them to find a local supplier in your area.

Their telephone number is You can also e-mail them at npc npcsealants. This article has a lot of good information that would have changed my approach to past PVC projects.

But I still have a few questions, specifically about Versatex products:. I understand that they must be shimmed if using treated lumber due to twisting, so I am asking about untreated lumber. Sorry for not responding sooner. In response to your questions. You can reinforce the gap between the wrap and the structural post using a dense insulation or even low to medium expansion spray foam insulation. It works well with both treated and untreated posts.

Another way wraps are installed is to firmly attach them to the structural post on the side most likely to receive occasional contact and let the other three sides float. In my 12 years in this industry, I have never seen an instance of any bleed through the PVC onto the face of the beaded ceiling. See Liquid Nails Sub-Floor spec sheet for further information on the product.

Nails and screws might fracture the leg of the Stealth beadboard. The caulk failed after a few years and water leaks in. I recaulked, but the gap is just so large it looks like a long term problem. I carefully cut a piece of PVC board to trim around the windows and wanted to seal it really well to fill the area with the big crack that was previously caulked. I used a DAP caulk that said was OK with PVC board, but after a month it never cured, so I had to undo a whole days work and pull the boards off and clean up the old wet caulk as well as I could.

I was thinking of trying again. Is there a caulk at the Lowes or HD that would bond well to both EIFS stucco and the vinyl window frame where I could have a smaller caulk seam around the window?

Thanks for the advice. Check with your local lumber yard. It is solvent based. Can I used this to caulk between PVC board and vinyl window frame. Thanks much for the suggestion. Hi John, I am building shutters in the Bahamas. I concerned about the warmer temps and the material sagging in temps of degrees. Am I right to be worried? A temperature of degrees F is not a concern. Most cellular PVC has a heat distortion temperature of F which means the product will not lose any of its physical properties until it reaches a temperature equal to or higher than F.

One advantage you have in the Bahamas is the temperature differential high and low is not that great. I hope I have answered your question.

Be sure to tell him he was recommended by John Pace at Versatex. I use PVC trim extensively in the new England region and love the products…I have a home in south Florida and would like to replace the wood trim with PVC and have not seen much of the product here. Also, few dealers to buy from as well. I am wondering if the extreme temps have adverse effects to PVC trim here in the south.??

Also I am designing a pergola and am considering using the INTEX products and again what are the effects here in the south for these products? Thank you for any input….

New England was the first market to embrace cellular PVC trim and have done so in a big way. The southeast including Florida has been slower to convert. Cellular PVC actually performs better in the south than in the northeast because the high to low temperature swing is much less. Thus, it experiences less expansion and contraction. There are dealers stocking cellular PVC trim in Florida let me know if we can help you identify one. Also Intex is a great Millwork shop. However, there are also PVC Millwork shops throughout Florida fabricating all sorts of gingerbread items.

So in summary, you can use cellular PVC trim in Florida without any concerns or issues. I plan to build curved plywood forms to bend them on. Any advice regarding a heat gun purchase, etc etc? The most important installation issue is bonding and fastening the PVC sheet to the plywood form.

The concern here is bowing of the sheet between fasteners when exposed to the UV rays of the sun. The sun will heat this thin sheet and those areas not properly secured to the plywood frame will bow towards the sun. These thin cellular PVC products are typically used by millwork shops and in the sign and graphics industry. If your interested in a non metal nail for this application Google Raptor Nails.

This company makes nylon composite nails and have specific nail guns for installing their strip nails. We are planning on trimming a bathtub with pvc trim. Our tub is a standard in a raised wood platform. The tub lip buts up against wood.

Questions ; what type of caulking should we use to seal to tub? Should we miter and assemble on floor before installing?. Thank you. If this were an exterior application where we want maximum adhesion and sealant flexibility, we would choose a solvent based sealant. My second choice would be Quad for siding and roofing. Since this is an interior application, yes you can use an adhesive to attach the trim to a wood frame. However, how do you plan to apply enough pressure to the PVC trim to get an adequate bond?

However, that decision is up to you. Since the pvc can be routed like wood. Is this possible using a C. As for sealing the cuts by sanding and rubbing them with acetone, you do get more sealed cuts when following these steps and it is probably the best practice outside of painting.

I am planning on replacing some windows on the end of an A-frame house. Any advice will be greatly appreciated. PVC is non load bearing. Is the sash fixed in the frame or is it operable single hung, double hung, casement? You mentioned the fixed glass that you are replacing with Thermopane units. If the sash is fixed in the window what is the size of the sash? If the sash is operable I recommend another material or reinforcing the cellular PVC with aluminum.

As for sealant, silicone does not bond well to cellular PVC. You could try modified silicones like Quad Max or even Weather Master. This is a follow-up to my previous question. Your reply was very helpful in giving me a path forward. There are two identical units, and each unit has two upper fixed panes now thermopane , and a double Andersen awning window below.

When I get a picture of the completed project I will post that as well. Again, thanks for your help! Jim, glad I could help. I look forward to seeing the finished product. Enjoy the rest of your day. The insulated glass was sealed with Quad Max and came out great; thanks for the recommendation. I spent over hours making a sign out of PVC board and it has garnered many compliments in the last 18 months. Unfortunately, it was vandalized this past week. The perp apparently thrust his whole weight against the sign breaking it in two see photo.

I need a glue with a long working time to get the pieces back together. I intend on pulling the joint together with pocket screws, but it will take two of us working quickly up to a half hour estimated to join the fractured pieces. I would very much appreciate a recommendation on glue. Alan: The guy did one heck of a job demolishing such a nice sign. Your question is an easy one. One of the best adhesives on the market that has a long cure time while also drying to a hard acrylic finish that has superior strength to the cellular PVC is TrimWelder by Extreme Adhesives.

The adhesive is a two component solvent and silicone free structural methyl methacrylate or MMA. Thus, it requires a caulking tube that will support two components if using the ml tubes or a smaller two component gun you can get at Grainger if using the 50 ml tube.

I would read their technical data sheets on their website to determine which one is right for your application. Good luck with the repair. I already put up this PVC product as casing, and i did not realize that you cannot paint it a dark color. I absolutely MUST paint it. Can anyone please give me advice as to what type of primer and what type of paint to use?

I realize i lose the warranty, but i still must do it. Your advice of the best choice under these conditions would be much appreciated!!! Good evening Jenice. My typical questions are maximum length of trim run, direction trim faces, temperature at which trim was installed, min and max exposure temperatures where the trim was installed, paint color, LRV if available, and fastener being used. Hopefully you used a strong fastener min.

Finally, how the trim performs on the wall will depend on the temperature of the trim when it was installed, what direction the trim faces N, S, E, W , and the length of the trim run. The lower the installation temperature the more chance the trim will buckle as it expands linearly. I hope you find this information of value. Hi John, Is it permissible to use Versatex sheets to fabricate outdoor cabinets for summer kitchens? The short answer is yes. The columns are raised panels made of cellular PVC boards.

The raised panels, custom mouldings and cabinetry were all fabricated by a local OEM. The soffit and fascia are also cellular PVC trim. All trim was secured with Cortex screws and plugs. What we have found is you can machine Cellular PVC just like plywood or solid wood. Pocket screws, dowels, and screwing thru sides all work well with Cellular PVC. However when preparing parts on a CNC router you have to use the proper bits. O-Flutes come in many sizes. These bits allow for quick chip removal, which is key to minimizing heat build up in the cellular PVC.

Basically you can use Cellular PVC for anything you can do in wood. Im interested in using the pvc trim board at the corner of a home where the wood siding on each side stops.

Will it work or look right? Good evening Bryan. There are three ways to handle the corners on this project you can make your own corners from two boards, you can v-groove and fold a piece of Trimboard to create an outside corner, or you can buy a fabricated corner from a PVC trim and sheet manufacturer. This is wood siding and trim. I wanted to know could i use the pvc trim boards to replace the wood, because of insects and wood peckers creating holes in the trim.

Yes you can use cellular PVC trim to replace the wood trim on this home. It will not rot and will prevent insect and woodpecker damage. It can also be painted if necessary. If you plan to replace the wood trim with cellular PVC trim, and prefer not to paint it, please use screws and plugs. There is no nail hole filler or putty that is a good color match to cellular PVC trim.

I used a white pvc window flashing trim material on the 1st phase of our home reno. I recently received a new batch of the same product to use on the next phase. Its the same manufacturer, same material. With the new batch, if left out of the box for as little as 24 hours, it turns from white to grey. I intend to approach the manufacturer for replacement, but problem is I see some that I already installed is greying. What is happening here i am assuming some UV damage and what is the best way to treat the pieces I have put on that are too difficult now to remove.

I have never heard of SureSill window flashing. Why it has turned grey after only 24 hours of outdoor exposure is a mystery to me. Typical PVC building products that suffer UV damage will turn yellow mild degradation , orange serious degradation or brown total degradation. I have never seen any PVC building product, including vinyl siding and vinyl windows turn grey due to over-exposure to the sun.

If I were you I would ask the manufacturer what happened. Hi John, Nice informative site. My questions are: Does this all sound ok? Hi Joe: Your installation technique is very good. A solvent based adhesive will breakdown the PVC and create a strong chemical bond. When using an adhesive apply it to only one of the edges you plan to bond not both of them. You want a good board to board bond. An occasional 6d ss finish nail will add the needed pressure at the glue line producing a strong bonded joint.

As for biscuits, there not necessary. However, if you plan to use them be sure to use a biscuit compatible with PVC. One last comment, if the post you are wrapping is a wet pressure treated allow ample room for any twisting of the post. Otherwise there is a good chance you will split open one or more of the joints.

To avoid this take the necessary steps to make sure the post is semi dry before wrapping. Hi John, I am working with pvc for the first time. Before finding this site I wrapped an existing structure made of cedar with pvc. I used Loctite extreme to bond to both the painted cedar and other parts made of the pvc molding, on some trim I used special screws for pvc but not the mfg listed here.

Will this be adequate? I also started to make a gate by routing the pvc, I did not realize that the cells would be exposed. How can I close the cells so the trim will not get dirty?

I have attached a couple of pictures. Thanks for your assistance, I wish I would have found this site earlier. Assuming this is true they are MS Silicones that cure from the humidity in the air. These products are relatively new to the market so long term performance data is not available. They have also been in the market for years. The Liquid Nail products may not cure as fast but we discount that as a condition of use.

What we do know is they have 2 to 3 times the shelf life than a plastic adhesive tube. So be sure to check this before buying. As for fasteners, if you have one you like great. Starborn offers a stainless steel screw. Finally, once you cut into cellular PVC you expose the core. The core is nothing more than an impervious honeycomb. However, it is susceptible to picking up dirt. I like to use a grit first before stepping down to To minimize the cells even further take Acetone and a clean white rag and liberally apply it to the sanded surfaces.

I hope you found the information helpful. Attached is an example of a large gate produced from cellular PVC. I plan to attached one or two more if the site allows me. Hi John, Here are a couple of pics. Thanks for your help. I would love to continue the paneling around the entire walk in shower. Would it be possible to use WP4 for this level of water and humidity? Good evening Becky. Versatex can be used in areas with high moisture content and high humidity without an issue.

In fact, you can place cellular PVC in water without fear of rotting or water absorption. The only concern I have and the one you need to consider is the surface durability of the Versatex WP Most bathrooms are created from ceramic tile, stone, etc. I just wanted to make you aware of my concern. I am not sure if the steam would be hot enough. Thanks in advance for your help.

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